Stari Grad Croatia – A step back in time

​One of the many joys of cruising is visiting ports I’ve never been to before and discovering incredible places I’d never knew existed. This happened on one of our Azamara cruises out of Venice which included a port stop in Hvar, Croatia. Hvar itself is very interesting, and I’ll write about it in a later post. But what amazed us and captured our hearts was Stari Grad, Croatia. It is a place that should not be missed if you like history and architecture.

​Stari Grad is about a scenic 30-minute drive from Hvar (which is located on the west side of the island) over the mountains to the east side of the island.  Unlike much of Europe with its modern mega-cities with flashy glass buildings, Stari Grad has retained its old-time charm. It is like walking back in history.
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The town is at the end of a long deep-water channel in Stari Grad Bay. It is protected to the north by the hills of the Kabal peninsula and on the south by the high mountain ridge Hvar. It has offered a safe harbor to sailors for centuries. The town has been able to protect and preserve its authentic character.

​The town was allowed to forge its own money and was protected the long canal surrounded by mountains and with high walls around the city center. Remnants of these walls can be seen at the Church of St. John and by two forts.
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​Over time, the island was taken over by Rome and then the Venetian Republic. Hvar became one of the bases for the Venetian fleet. Later the Turks invaded twice and burnt down most of the town. In 1797 Napoleon invaded and captured the town. Austria and France controlled it before it became part of the Dalmatian Kingdom. In 2008 the town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

​Then after a short walk we reach the old town. As we walked down the narrow cobblestone roads, some barely wider than the reach of our outstretched arms, you can’t help but feel like you’ve traveled through a time machine to an era long lost. You can easily imagine the clanking of horse drawn cart wheels on the cobblestones as farmers took their wares to the port.

​​These charming stone homes were built in the 16th and 17th century some with renaissance-baroque characteristics while others show traits of the Romanesque and Gothic periods. We stopped in several small village courtyards where villagers would gather for parties, festivals, and celebrations.

Today these homes are being renovated with modern interiors. During our walk, the tour guide took us to a home undergoing remodeling. During excavations for new plumbing they unearthed a beautiful ancient Roman mosaic floor buried a couple of feet below the surface. He noted this is a common find as homes were built upon the ruins of previous generations.

Nearby is the Petar Hektorovic Trvrdalj (castle). While not really much of a castle, this mansion was built by Croatia’s most famous poet – Peter Hektorovic (1487 – 1572). As you enter the property through the courtyard, you’ll notice a large pond full of local fish. The gardens are being restored slowly with Mediterranean plantings. It is one of the first homes in Europe to have an indoor toilet. While you can visit the gardens, the house is not open to the public.